Day 25: A Uniquely Interesting Day in Emporia

Today was an odd day. On an off day there’s usually laundry and lots of sleep. We did the sleeping in thing, and then Chad and I went to IHOP for breakfast. The hostess/server there took 3-4 minutes to even appear, and then was the most surly person I’ve seen in months. Rather than endure dealing with her we left. After a fast food breakfast I went for a haircut. Thanks to the homogenization of American chains, the Great Clips in Emporia knew from my phone number how to cut my hair. The woman cutting my hair told me the story of cooking barbeque for 140 people yesterday for Memorial Day. They were 140 inmates at the local federal prison, most of them awaiting final disposition of their cases. She regaled me with the vagaries of preparing food for so many people, including the fact that both Rice Krispy squares and Pop Tarts are off limits for people who avoid pork.

After that I walked back through a more residential area. Our hotels are usually at freeway interchanges, which look almost all alike, with the same hotels, fast food restaurants, and Wal-Marts. I feel the Brits among us are getting a very skewed look at America.

Normal life in small town America

There’s a local Technical College whose clock reads differently on its two sides.

Then things got weird. We (Todd, Chad, and I) got a cab into town. I mentioned the woman at IHOP, although I was concerned the driver might know her. Indeed he did. He launched into a 10 minute profanity laden rant about how she calls the cab to take her home at noon, often going all the way across town to the Flying J truck stop for coffee on her way home, even though home is on the other side of town. Sometimes she goes home first and then gets the cab for coffee. Needless to say, the driver disapproves. He then went on a further rant about his plan to retire in a month and travel with his Harley and his travel trailer.

Emporia advertises itself as the “Gravel Bike Capital of the World” and hosts a large gravel biking event this weekend, the highlight of which is a one day 200 mile gravel bike race. The town was filled with young volunteers getting ready, signs everywhere, and bike shops cleaning their windows (but not any of the other businesses).

Even the theater marquee

It’s also a disc golf mecca. Who knew?

What the heck?

Then we saw this building. It’s now an assisted living facility, but it has a control tower on top. Why? It’s at least a mile from the rail yard and there is no airport. Through Google Chad finally found an explanation from 10 years ago in the local paper. The building was built in the 1920s and the observation tower was added about 1955 to watch for incoming aerial attacks. It was staffed by volunteer women who would alert the local air base. It’s not clear who would have attacked Emporia, Kansas, where they would have come from, or how they could have flown to nearly the center of the continental US without being discovered, but there you have it.

Tomorrow, Topeka.

19 responses to “Day 25: A Uniquely Interesting Day in Emporia”

  1. David Van Couvering Avatar
    David Van Couvering

    So much to offer here:

    – If you haven’t watched it already, search for “SNL Waffle House” on YouTube
    – If you haven’t watched it already, watch the TV show Poker Face
    – The control tower lines right up with the anti-communist hysteria going on in the 50s
    – Some day I’ll share about my three day Greyhound bus ride from Colorado to Oregon

    This is America 🙂

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    1. I’ll start with Waffle House. There’s not a lot of TV on the trip, and most of that is weather

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  2. David Van Couvering Avatar
    David Van Couvering

    By the way who is Google Chad?

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    1. Google Chad is like the ideal Alexa

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  3. One of my Med school classmates went to college at Emporia State. I wonder if he knew the IHOP lady. She sounds old enough

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    1. Perhaps she is the girl he left behind who has been wallowing in bitterness and self-pity ever since.

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  4. Today provided a great tale to tell! Just imagine all the stories you would have if you spent a full day at each overnight stop. Onward!

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    1. Kansas is fertile soil in so many ways

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  5. This report made me chuckle. Small town rants. Enjoy tomorrow’s ride

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  6. I chuckled as well! Great stories and so glad you were able to get a good haircut! I am missing the full run-downs of the dinner menu, but I guess you are finding too many other interesting things to tell us about.

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    1. Dinner’s have been mostly poor. Tonight was a French restaurant in Topeka while the rest of the crowd went to Applebee’s. Crab cakes, salad, and filet with shrimp. It was good if not great. And then a milkshake at Steak’N’Shake

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  7. This is an experience you would never get in a plane, train or even your own automobile or rental car. The really great thing about slow travel is it allows you the time and mental energy to ponder the weird stuff we are usually in too much of a hurry to focus on. Then you get to mull it over with your traveling companions and try to understand the behavior of people you will likely never see again. So many unanswered questions you will never have the answers to like why the Flying J for coffee? This could be the beginning of your first novel.

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    1. She used to work at Flying J. The driver couldn’t understand why she didn’t drink IHOP coffee rather than disturb him.

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  8. Best blog entry so far.

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    1. Thanks. Lots of material

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  9. Wow! Interesting day. Great local flavor. The observation tower bit is a great discovery.

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    1. I just happened to look up and see it. There was a lot of paranoia going on then, even before Sputnik.
      http://www.emporiagazette.com/business/article_190f4e28-ebbf-50f0-a353-a07b7b3ac047.html

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  10. Bunny Harmony Avatar

    Hey Chad and Spencer,
    Brett and I are just catching up with news of your trip and have read the whole blog. What an amazing journey! I am so impressed; can’t believe how many miles you’re putting in each day. And what an experience; to really truly get a sense of the size of the country by actually crossing it under your own steam – so few people can say they have done that.
    Fascinated by the route map – I have so many questions. Hope to see you when we’re in Grant’s Pass this summer to hear more about it.
    Bunny x

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    1. I’m glad you’re along for the ride. Fire away with the questions, there may be other people interested in the answers

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